When it comes to skincare, collagen supplements have taken the world by storm. With celebrity-endorsed promises of reduced wrinkles, fresh bouncy skin and a youthful glow, these supplements come with a hefty price tag to match. But do collagen supplements really do anything for our skin? And can they sit within a vegan routine? As a vegan dietitian, come with me as I unpack the science behind collagen, as well as explore the ethical considerations and alternative options.
Collagen is a protein that is made in the bodies of animals (including humans!), formed from 19 different amino acids. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body making up at least 30% our total protein (1). There are number of different forms of collagen, but the main 3 found in the human body are type I, II and III. As a connective tissue, collagen acts as a bit like an internal ‘scaffolding’ for our skin, promoting its firmness, hydration and elasticity (which makes it spring back like a mattress).
As we age, our ability to produce collagen naturally reduces and this is one of the main reasons for the development of wrinkles and dryness as we get older. But it isn’t just time that breaks it down. Our lifestyle can impact how quickly our skin ages as collagen is also broken down by UV rays (when you spend time in the sun without protection) and smoking.
Anti-ageing is big business and so it is no surprise that collagen supplements have received the attention they have. Who doesn’t want a fix-it-all pill to look 10 years younger? But… before you jump on the bandwagon, it’s important to know what they are really made of and if they are worth your money.
One study from 2018 found that collagen supplementation ‘improves skin elasticity and has a beneficial effect on joint and general wellbeing’(2). However, this study provided a supplement that combined collagen with vitamins and other bioactive compounds, and so we cannot conclude that it was the collagen itself. If these participants had a poor diet prior to the study, this supplement may have just covered some nutrients they were lacking, thus improving their skin. ‘General wellbeing’ is also a very vague term…
Another systematic review and meta-analysis (which means a study that looks at lots of other studies) found favourable results of hydrolysed (‘broken down’) collagen supplementation compared to placebo when it came to skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles over 90 days (3). Despite these seemingly positive results, research is in its infancy and the limited evidence we have is on a small number of people for short periods of time, so there is no way of knowing long-term results or being able to recommend supplement type, dosage, or frequency at this point in time.
From a biological point of view, when consuming collagen, there is no way of sending that expensive substance directly to our skin. Like all other proteins we eat, our digestive system breaks whole collagen down into peptides and amino acids that are used wherever they are needed in the body – and that’s not necessarily our skin.
As highlighted by Harvard School of Public Health (4), it’s important to bear in mind that research on collagen supplementation is almost all, or at least partly, funded by industry or carried out by one or more researchers linked the companies who are selling you these supplements. These companies have a huge financial incentive to find and publish positive results. There is no way to know if negative or neutral results simply weren’t published, or if the positive results were over-stated. Financial incentives don’t always change study results, but it’s something we must consider within such a lucrative industry with very few robust studies.
Another paper investigated how collagen is represented online and in social media and found that the dermatologic claims made surpass any evidence currently supported by studies (5). You will also find a far greater number of unqualified celebrities and influencers who support them compared to qualified professionals who understand the issues surrounding the research.
So, let’s say it is 10 years into the future and we have found that collagen supplements really do marginally improve the look of your skin. Would I recommend them then?
My answer is no. All collagen is derived from animals including cows (bovine), pigs (porcine), and fish (marine). Producing these supplements involves intensive farming practices, which raise serious animal welfare issues. It is also very hard, if not impossible, to trace where the collagen in your supplement has come from, or the kind the conditions the animals have lived and died in.
Personally, I’d rather have an extra laughter line.
As well as animal welfare, we need to consider the impact of collagen production on our planet. An investigation reported in the Guardian links collagen supply chains to deforestation in Brazil (6). They state that, far from a by-product, leather and collagen can generate anywhere up to 20% of income generated from these animals. Marine collagen appears to be no more sustainable either. In fact, sea cucumbers are increasingly targeted despite many species being threatened or endangered. Plus, the use of collagen-rich fish, jellyfish, sharks, starfish and sponges is likely to incentivise by-catch by the fishing industry as highlighted in an article by Plant Based News (7).
So, if we don’t want to take supplements, can we eat collagen? Foods that contain collagen are animal-derived, for example meat, bone broth and gelatine. These foods are not required in a healthy human diet and I do not promote them due to their contribution to significant animal suffering and environmental breakdown. Even if you do eat meat, a high intake is not recommended by most leading nutrition organisations.
The most abundant amino acids in collagen are hydroxyproline, proline, and glycine (8). This is great news for any vegans or those wishing to eat more plants! Why? Because we can get them all from plants! Plants rich in these amino acids include legumes, beans, lentils, tofu, tempeh, quinoa, nuts and seeds, and these support the body’s own production of collagen (9). To support this process further and to support overall skin health, we also need a range of other nutrients such as:
In addition to specific nutrients, a well-balanced and varied plant-based diet has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects that will support your skin health. Maximising foods rich in colour, like dark leafy greens, vibrant berries and bright turmeric will provide extra protection against oxidative stress that can age our skin. In fact, one review looking at the link between nutrition and skin ageing stated…
Plants do not produce collagen, and so vegan ‘collagen’ is usually a mixture of plant ingredients thought to boost our own collagen production. Vegan collagen may be available in the future through the development of new technologies such as fermented yeast.
Instead of taking protein from the skin and hides of brutally slaughtered animals, I believe that if we all simply ate more fruits and vegetables as part of a balanced and increasingly plant-based diet and protected our skin from the sun, we would all not just be looking a little younger and more vibrant, but we would feel better and live longer too. Let’s leave the animals out of it.
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